Review: McCall's m7513, View A – Day to Night Gold Blazer
What attracted me to this pattern was that the front looks like a classic blazer, yet there's a party going on at the back with the pleated peplum and tab. I dressed this blazer up by making it in in pink and gold brocade, and using pearl buttons. This pattern has tons of fun features to help you make your own unique creation.
Pattern: McCall's 7513; Fabric: Brocade (Fabric Vision); Lining: Pongee (Fabric Vision); Jeans: Giselle, Riders by Lee.
What to love about this pattern
Wearing this blazer feels like I'm about to step out to a party after work. The fit is tapered from the bust to the waist, yet comfortable enough to wear a blouse underneath, but you won't be able to get away with wearing a bulky sweater underneath this blazer.
I recommend making this blazer with a fancy fabric like brocade or heavy satin, but anything goes as long as it can hold the pleats. The shape of this design is suitable for big prints or geometric shapes. Peplum blazers look best with slim cut bottoms like slim jeans and pants, straight and tapered skirts, and sheath dresses.
What I don't like about this pattern
The sleeves of this blazer were unusually difficult to sew to the armholes, even though I matched the dots and used an easing thread. I tried many times to remove tucks in this seam and I think I flattened them all out. That being said, this blazer fitted well in the shoulders, where many patterns do not. Also, the darts at the front of this blazer were too pointed the first time I attempted this pattern, obviously it was designed with a larger bust in mind.
Changes that I made
I made the front darts higher and deeper than suggested to tailor the bust. Even so, this jacket still has some gaping issues at the lapels when moving around. I think this could have been avoided by having the top button higher on the jacket.
What I could have done better
The hem of the peplum around the pleats didn't turn out as smooth as I would like them to be. Also, this fabric is terrible at fraying, so I had to repair several fraying curved seams where the notches had given away. Word to the wise: stay stitch all curved seams at 1.3 cm if you are using fabrics that fray easily.
Difficulty
This blazer should be considered an average difficulty. The sleeves were quite hard to sew. You'll also need to know how to sew button holes onto a blazer, which can be difficult if your fabric is thick. Your average sewing machine may stop the button hole pattern half way when you use thick fabrics. My solution to this is to gently guide the machine through the sequence (you'll have to memorize the sequence). If the machine stops half way, then start again on the other side of the button hole.
The Verdict
This pattern creates a fabulous peplum blazer with lots of creative potential. I can see myself making this pattern several more times in different fabrics and views. Need a jacket suited for the board room? Make this pattern in navy suiting. Want a blazer for a casual summer event? This pattern would look great in pastel linen. What about a blazer that can move from day to night? Make this blazer in brocade like me.
- Instruction Clarity: 4.5/5. For most of the part the instructions are very clear and detailed; however, the instructions for attaching and hemming the peplum could have been more detailed.
- Fit: 4/5. This blazer is well fitted and flattering for most the part. I did have to deepen the darts at the front because they pointed out too far.
- Design Elegance: 4/5. Cleverly designed to be classic at the front and fun at the back, perfect for women who are tired of the status quo blazer. However, the sleeves and peplum hem have issues.
- Final Product: 5/5. This blazer has many design elements that I love. I can also wear it every day at work for most seasons.
- Overall: 4.4/5.
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