Review: McCall's m6800, View B – A Modern Victorian Riding Coat?

Transform this pattern into a dramatic winter coat, Victorian riding coat or a steampunk cosplay. This coat pattern is easy, versatile and classic.  

Pattern: McCall's 6800, Fabric: Wool/cashmere/polyester blend herringbone coating material (Lincraft); Lining: Synthetic (Fabric Vision), Skirt: Vogue 8603 (made by me); Top: Butterick 6217 (made by me); Shoes: Nika, Miz Mooz. 

What to love about this pattern 

When I saw how dramatic this pattern was I had to make it! I love the waterfall hemline. The collar can also be converted from the classic notch collar to a conservative band collar. This coat elevates any outfit and turns heads. I love wearing this coat with tea dresses since you can see a peak of the dress beneath the coat. A coat like this can help you wear your favourite dresses into autumn. You can wear this coat with pants, skirts and dresses. The bust and shoulders of this coat are close fitting, so you can't wear bulky sweaters underneath.

Another advantage of this pattern is that it doesn't have a seam at the waistline, yet is still tailored at the waist. This gives the coat a smooth and lengthening look, and it perfect for patterns like strips, herringbone and houndstooth. If you wanted to accentuate the waist further, you could add a belt.

What I don't like about this pattern 

The shoulders on this pattern were far too big, I don't normally have this problem with McCall's patterns. Luckily this was an easy fix because the shoulder seam is made from four pieces. Also this pattern takes many meters of fabric (about 4 m or 4¹/₄ yds.)

  

What I could have done better 

I wish I used a more colourful lining fabric. The lining peeps out under the coat and would look fantastic in another colour. 

Difficulty 

As far as coats go, this one is quite easy. However, if you've never sewn a coat before I would suggest starting with a zipper coat with an easier collar. Don't be afraid to try a collared coat like this one if you've sewn coating materials before. The trick with notched collars is to sew from all sides up to the point of the notch, then to hand-sew the inside of the notch flat.  

As for the buttonholes, my sewing machine has the tendency to restart the sequence half way in. My solution is to 1) guide the machine through the sewing sequence by pushing the fabric where it needs to go and 2) restart from the other side of the buttonhole if it keeps stopping half way. You'll need to memorise the buttonhole sewing sequence to be able to do this.

The Verdict 

McCall's 6800 is a versatile pattern you'll be reaching for in autumn and winter for many years to come. The inclusion of different coat lengths, collars, and a hood make this pattern very reusable. I can see my self making this pattern again in different colours and styles to revive a winter wardrobe.

• Instruction Clarity: 5/5. The instructions are easy to follow and detailed. 

• Fit: 4/5. The shoulders required some tailoring for a better fit. The rest of the coat has lovely shaping in the chest and shoulders. 

• Design Elegance: 5/5. Simply designed but dramatic and elegant.  

• Final Product: 5/5. This is my go-to coat because it allows a peep at a beautiful dress underneath.  

• Overall: 4.8/5.